In this video I discuss, in depth, how to repair and solder SK6812 under cabinet light strips. These can be the best under cabinet lights when paired with a WLED controller because you can incorporate patterns, colors, and even timers to brighten/dim automatically. Great for parties and every day life.
However, like all lighting products - they sometimes go out and need repair.
Here are links to the items found in this video (and for the under cabinet lighting):
Weller Industrial Soldering Gun: https://amzn.to/4579Oic Solder: https://amzn.to/4mhHZuI For the Cabinet Lighting: SK6812 light strips (suggest natural white and IP65 to protect from Kitchen life): https://amzn.to/3Uw2XtP To Power the lights, a Meanwell 12V power supply (for full time running always run a Meanwell): https://amzn.to/4miE9l8 Wiring from control box / PSU to lights: https://amzn.to/4lHKNBn Easy setup WLED controller: https://amzn.to/4lRavn8 Box used to house WLED controller and Power supply (in attic): https://amzn.to/4mf6Dft Budget friendly phone gimbal for auto-tracking the overal/main video: https://amzn.to/44OvcKh (note - the app was not used to create this video, simply connect the AI module and it will automatically track!)The lights themselves are installed into aluminum tracks that mimic the shape of the cabinet front. For each cabinet section there is wiring that runs to the first and last pixel of each section that includes power, negative, and data. Each wire set is run back to the control box. This setup is used with 1 single output from the WLED controller. For those who are used to shows and controllers something like a 4 o 8 port WLED controller may be easier to wire. The reason each run includes wiring on both sides is to also allow for power balancing.
Small holes were drilled at the front corner of each cabinet section to allow the wire to run behind the face of the cabinet, held in place with small screws with big heads (lath screws). Wiring runs up through the cabinet directly into the attic.
Our WLED controller has timers set in the morning and night to change the color/brightness of the lights. This is effectively 'nightlight' and day mode. We have a similar setup behind our custom fireplace mantle that also WLED and mimics the kitchen cabinets.
The SK6812's are preferred over others due to the added white pixel. With the interior home lighting you really want to control the white color to match your interior lights and sometimes controlling white with RGB can be difficult as there is generally a color hue. The white pixel fixes this problem.
Check out this video for the detailed instructions on how to repair. At the end of the video I quickly repair the 2nd section to show how long it actually takes to solder these when you are comfortable with the process.
One of the most iconic pieces of a light show is the megatree. They're versatile in use, size, and ways they can be set up. We've found one of the best ways to make a strong and economical megatree.
In the video we discuss how to set up an Antenna Tower based tree. Some modification/fabrication skills may be required, or at least help to make the costs lower.
The items you will want/need are:Antenna towerWatch Facebook Marketplace (or other used items locally) as they will frequently come up. Pricing can be all over the place as the style, size, condition, and how quickly the seller wants to get rid of them. Generally 20-40ft can be found for $200 or less if you are patient! Best if you find one with a top piece and enough to be taller than your desired overall height
Concrete
Once you have your tower determine the height and make the bottom piece as short as possible. Using something to hold the bottom piece in place and that you can form concrete in (we used a 27gallon tub), pour concrete to encase the bottom piece. We also used eye hooks set into the concrete so we could tie in straps. This cost was around $35 (60lb bags for ~$4 ea and around 500lbs). We also use concrete on our trampoline base - 4x 5gallon buckets (one per corner/leg) which probably totals around $50 for the concrete and buckets. Black is best to buy!
Guy Wires
We used heavy sized wire and this is where we did not cheap out. Our tree is around 21ft tall plus the star but we used 5/16" steel cable. Attach these to the top of the top piece using the proper steel cable hardware and leave them more than long enough until you know where the stakes will go. We also used heavy duty turnbuckles. This was probably around $100 of hardware.
Rebar & Eye HooksFor our stakes we used a 20ft piece of 5/8" rebar cut into 3 even pieces (just shy 7ft ea) then welded steel eye hooks to the top (so the turnbuckles can attach). This was around $25 for all.
Trampoline Base
Since our tree was planned to be around 20ft tall we wanted a 10ft ring. We found a used trampoline online for $40. The leg height were easily modified by simply leaving the middle height bars out!
Steel Topper
This is an important piece as it's required for how to attach the strips at the top and extend up for a star. We used a steel topper (around $80), then some scrap pieces of pipe we had (at a hardware store would be around $20). We welded a 2" pipe on the bottom and drilled holes through that into the antenna tower so that the topper can be bolted to the antenna top. A 1" pipe was welded to the top so that a star can be easily attached.
Total cost: This is going to vary heavily on how much you are able to get the antenna tower and base each for. Our tower was given to us by someone trying to get rid of theirs but, again, $200 is a very common price to see 20-40ft for if you are patient. We will calculate that as the cost.
Tower - $200Topper - $100Base - $40Guy Wires - $100 + $25 for stakesConcrete - $90Total - $555
After this you will simply need pixels, strips, and your controller. Keep in mind - this gets your a semi-portable tree that is extremely stable and safe. We climb our tree to install the strips, have been at the top in 15+mph winds, handled 70+mph blizzard, freezing rain and more.
In this video we show it all being set up!