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The infinity spinner is a good sized prop at 43" - but what could make it intimidating to push is that it has 1,450 pixels and no wiring diagram printed on the back. In fact - this prop is so dense, we don't think a wiring diagram would even translate well onto the back. You're in luck, though, as this may just be the easiest (borderline monotonous) props to push!   This video should help provide insight in to how to find the wiring diagram in Xlights, explains it a bit, shows the 1 pattern error, and gives insights to making it easy!   Here is some of the written version of the video: Why did my prop arrive in 2 pieces instead?Particularly for the infinity spinner, the holes are so tight that trying to 'slit' the prop like others would guarantee hitting holes since you have to slit in a straight line.  2nd reason is that the angles are done on purpose to help when you do zip tie it back together the different angles put pressure in different directions on purpose. If you're using the 3D printed brackets:The brackets on the Infinity Spinner are different than most you've seen before - because they have to be.  The hole spacing is quite tight so the bolt method had to be used, a standard big 'block' to hole pipe just wouldn't work.  The carriage bolt will go through the plate, then the head of the bolt will sit against the coro - trapping it.  You will want to put the zip ties as shown here across the 2 halves - and feel free to really tighten them.  Once it's all done/pushed - the frame should hold the weight of the prop and there's more than enough zip ties between the 4 brackets to support it all.  We've tested the weight of 1,600 pixels on a single zip tie hole in this coro.   Pushing: The top doesn't really matter where you start, but is easiest to setup; the brackets are intended where the  short distance between the brackets is to the top and find the center "leaf".  Imagine drawing a straight line through that main "leaf" straight down to the center pixel circle - and the top pixel is 1,450 - the pixel just to the right is pixel 1.  Our props almost always have the first and last pixel next to each other for easier connections if/when needed - to achieve that on the infinity spinner there is a line of pixels that travels from the top down back next to 1 -  the wiring never jumps "over" that line. The entire thing is relatively simple patterns as the pixels/wiring loops back and forth (and there is 1 error in the pattern).  For instance pixel 1 goes in, and you follow the inner circle clockwise and just before #20 it goes up in to a new pattern which rotates counter clockwise.  Once you figure out the pattern it's the same until you get close to that middle line - where you move back up.  You can draw the wiring if you want - but I find that as long as I can get the pattern at each layer down after the first 1 or 2 pattern repeats, I don't even look at the wiring diagram on Xlights when pushing.  Just be careful to get it right as you approach that "center" line where the patterns change. The error in the pattern Here is the error in the pattern and you don't need to worry about it until you're almost to 1,300.  Notice in the green circles that the end on the right doesn't reach far to the right, but on the red circle it does?  When I push this I count each section of 5 pixels (some get double counted, meaning I will count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and then number 5 is the first for the next row - then I just keep in my head I'm simply counting rows of 5 - meaning if I get distracted, look up/away when I look down I'll see that maybe I've pushed 3 - there's 2 more in the row).  In the error there is a 6 count of pixels where it reaches just a little further. If you're on auto pilot, but checking every 100 pixels - you'll see that it's off at pixel 1,300. Last notes You will really want pixel pliers as some are tight enough it's difficult to get even the pliers to fit between pixels. I personally break my strings up into 4 port - starting at 1, 401, 801, 1201 - for most 12v pixels at 20% you shouldn't need balancing (though at that point many want it).  I use blue painters tape to mark those connections so they're easy to find later in the giant sea of pixel wiring and connections. It is a lot of pixels and work - but it's such an awesome prop - it will all be worth it.

Our Practical Props is a collection of props we designed that follow a few rules:1) Each has 100 pixels2) Each does not require any splicing/cutting of pixels3) Each Xmodel includes a variety of submodels4) Each Xmodel includes at least 1 "Beats" state effect   In these videos we discuss a variety of things from how to import these last minute and get great usage by leveraging your groups to using the state effects.   Find the collection of Practical Props by clicking here  Announcement, importing, and leveraging groups:   Using the 'Beats' state effects as a means of some simple/quick sequencing:

In this video I discuss some of the differences I have encountered for the following type of pixels: 5V WS2811 bullets (Rextin) 12V WS2811 bullets (Wally's shown, but similar to Your Pixel Store and Mattos Designs) 12V WS2811 EVO pixels (Mattos) 12V YPS DUO bullet pixels, which are AKA GS8208 (Your Pixel Store) I discuss the differences, advantages, and disadvantages of each. This is not a recommendation for or against any of these pixels. As a quick synopsis: 5V bullet pixels take less power and voltage issues are immediately identifiable but require a significant amount of power balancing/injection. If you buy true Rextin brand pixels from Amazon (our experience in our personal show) - they may just be the most reliable pixels available. 12V bullet pixels require almost zero power balancing/injection. They really live up to "Mo Volts Mo Betta", allowing upwards of 45ft of extensions and 400+ pixels without any need of power balancing. However when they don't have enough voltage they can have frustrating issues of flickering and getting stuck on white, not always immediately noticeable. EVO pixels are a new comer and are 12v native - they have huge advantages in weight and space savings, along with a better reach in props on their 4" spaced pixels. They seem to be limited to 300 pixels and/or 20ft extensions before requiring power balancing, using spiker T adapters. They also have a continuous constant current draw unlike the other pixels - whether displaying lights/colors or not. While it wasn't mentioned in the video, the pricing of the EVO's is also better than all other options on the table today. YPS DUO (GS8208) pixels are 12V native and "new" to the hobby - but have been used pretty regularly in commercial settings for over a decade. Their huge advantage over all others is having the backup data line - allowing a failure to happen without knocking out the rest of the string. In simple testing 200 pixels seem to be the max before issues presented in odd/different ways. Each of these pixels have advantages and disadvantages when comparing to every other pixel discussed. What is important to you may not matter to someone else - so we can't definitively state which you should buy. What is best for your show is what you're comfortable with for your repair abilities/desires, power balancing/electrical comfort, power usages, weight/space savings, and more.

In this video we discuss a few build comparisons: Kulp K32 with YPS large enclosure, Kulp Mounting Plate, and LRS 600-12 power supplies Kulp K8 with YPS large enclosure, modifying the standard plate to work, LRS 600-12 power supplies, and differential receivers Kulp K32 in a DIY large Plano box from a big box store, LRS 350-12 power supplies   A few notes: If you're considering a YPS metal enclosure - consider the largest option.  Usually you see comments about how tight a box is to work in - so the more space the better.  These are great enclosures - especially in warmer climates - that will make building a more professional box easier! YPS verified the hinges are actually metal and had not yet heard/seen the issues presented in the video YPS has verified that others have noticed the issue with the 600-12 PSU's and is working on a fix The Plano box shown was a random one-off I haven't seen at the stores since - and I would have picked up more if they had them.  That box is perfect for a quick build that will sit on the ground in a colder/wet climate. Watch the video here to see more:

One of our longer projects has come to completion - just needs to be delivered.  In fact, the length of project was actually more due to figuring out how to ship/deliver than the actual design... and also waiting for our black coro to show up. Let's rewind a little.  After years of waiting elsewhere, the customer asked us if we could make an 8ft Orca Whale - well, actually 2 - but originally believed both would be the same design.  The original idea was a single 8ft cut out of black then white over layed on top.    We came up with some design ideas, suggesting 2 different designs - and the work started.  I didn't want to overlay - everything is designed as an insert.  Additional support brackets were designed to support all of the varying pieces. Cutting took place - almost 2 full sheets of black and a partial sheet of white was needed - we couldn't be more glad with the results. Just wanted to share - as we are pretty proud of these 2 whales!  They exhibit the ability to combine black and white coro in a different way, our bracket designs, and that not all props have to be made out of a single piece of coro. Each whale is 8ft tail to nose! The white doesn't sit on top - it's designed to fit together, like a puzzle with effectively zero space between pieces!   There are signifigant brackets along both whales and all pieces.  There's well over 100 zip ties holding them together to increase strength both at the joints and across the brackets.   If you would like to talk about custom props - reach out to us directly or find us on Facebook!

We hear it all the time, especially in the social media groups: "Just in time for next year!" or "Lock in your layout!" or even "Too late to make changes for this year".  Note - they're all wrong!  Read more for some tips/inspiration.

The stark white or black not doing it for you during the day?  Those nicely printed props entice you but you've read our other post to know they aren't fire retardant.... What to do? You can paint them!  Which will probably need maintaining..... but painting!   Supplies needed:Your Prop (preferrably without pixels)A green or red scuff/sanding padKrylon fusion spray paint(optional) Acrylic hand paint / paintbrushes   Step 1: Prep the coro Use the green/red scotch pad to scuff up the entire surface of the prop.  Clean it off.  Some have said they use acetone - we simply wipe it down with a damp paper towel and let dry. Step 2: Base layer Paint Using Krylon Fusion spray paint (your color of choice - we use Matte Clamshell) - coat the prop 2-3 times based on instructions on the can. Step 3: Add final touches This step can be done in a few ways.  We personally wait for the Krylon to dry and then hand paint with acrylic paints over top.   Another method we have used in the past - use cardboard to cut out shapes you want (either to spray paint or to cover where you don't want to spray paint) - and then layer new spray paint colors over it. A third option - and this works REALLY well for snowflakes - have 2 different colors of blue (preferably a light color and dark/royal blue) and start giving light/random sprays of color to the prop - do so holding the can a good 20-24" away from the prop so the paint drops are bigger and less even.  Continue to do this until you get the coverage you want   ***A Note On Krylon Fusion*** - sometimes there are issues with this paint.  This isn't an issue with the coro or mis-steps you've taken.  There are numerous posts (particularly from people painting boats) about 'bubbling' after trying to clear coat over - which is why we don't have steps that include a top coat.  Top/clear coat at your own risk.   Maintenance: Paint sticks OK to props - not exceptionally well.  One issue we have seen is that, at times especially in hotter temperatures, if props are stacked with wiring against paint - the paint can stick/soak to the wiring of the prop above/below it, and then pull paint away.  We've experienced this with props from ALL vendors.  It helps to stack the props with wires to wires and 'faces' to 'faces' of the props. When peeling happens - pull the peeled piece off.  If you can, scratch up around the edges.  Top over the exposed section with new acrylic paint by hand.   That's it!  I hope this has been helpful!

In this video I show, real time, some random single strand effects placed onto various submodels of the Flake Arc <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tb8RCIgVGpU" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>   (updated to fix audio issues)

Corrugated plastic - or in the light show world is known as 'Coro' - is the equivalent of cardboard, yet made out of plastic. If you're in the light show world, and if you're reading this then you very well might be, then coro probably refers to the props you buy and push pixels in. This product has a lot of other uses - primarily one you see all over the place and never think about - political and small advertisement signs.  You might now be thinking 'well that stuff is very different than the hefty stuff my props are made out of' - and you'd be right! There are many different types of coro - and the type of coro your props are made out actually do matter.   First variance is thickness.  If you go to a big box store or even look at the political/real estate signs all around - you'll notice it's much thinner.  What is used for most of that is 3.5mm - 4mm.  Generally this coro can hold it's shape, but not well - especially as holes get drilled into it.   Ok - so you might be thinking - 'just get the thickest coro!'.   That leads us into the next variance - the flute, or style, of coro.  Most of the coro that is easily obtainable (big box stores, sign companies) is "H" flute coro. It's called this because if you look at a side profile of the coro - the top and bottom of the coro make the sides of the "H" and the internal structure is a series of straight lines that run the length of the coro. Again, the typical 3.5-4mm coro found is this style.  Almost always, the coro from a sign shop is this style as well. They do make thicker coro, in this style - 6mm, 8mm, 3/8th", 10mm, even 1/2"! The standard, up until around 2020, in the lighting industry was 10mm H flute coro.   A new product came out - called Correx - which is similar to H flute coro, but it has additional internal bracing in the 'flutes' that shape an "X" in addition to the "H" coro! This is a huge factor that determines the strength.  A 10mm X flute coro is actually stronger than 1/2" H flute coro.  Further, the additional internal structure provides additional internal rigidity - which allows for holes to be cut closer/denser.   This became the (high end) standard of coro through around 2021.   4mm "H" flute vs 10mm X flute:     Pixel failures and fires increased significantly. Polypropolene, which is what coro is made out of, is flammable. A pixel fire starting in coro means the prop will easily ignite and continue to burn.   This entered in the new version of corrugated plastic, which has a chemical component that makes the plastic flame retardant. As of May of 2023 - a US based coro company is not able to produce X fluted coro nor provide any flame retardant corrugated plastic.  They referred us to a specialty plastics distributor. The plastics distributor was not able to source anything US made.  Nothing.   They were able to provide a sample of a product that is 'certified' to be flame retardant - but in personal testing - once it caught fire it continued to burn.   The coro found at sign shops and big box stores are, almost undoubtedly, US made - H flute and flammable.   There are manufacturers/distributors outside of the US that are able to produce 10mm X fluted coro that is flammable.  This is usually purchased in a large quantity (usually a minimum of around 200 sheets) and must go through an importing process.   Ask your coro prop maker, or check their websites - that they carry the best coro - X-fluted, flame retardant coro. As a show owner who attaches props to our own house - that is what we would want and expect.  So should you!  That's why all of our props are made from the best. 4MM H flute, 10mm (black) H flute, 10mm fire retardant X flute coro: