The infinity spinner is a good sized prop at 43" - but what could make it intimidating to push is that it has 1,450 pixels and no wiring diagram printed on the back.
In fact - this prop is so dense, we don't think a wiring diagram would even translate well onto the back.
You're in luck, though, as this may just be the easiest (borderline monotonous) props to push!
This video should help provide insight in to how to find the wiring diagram in Xlights, explains it a bit, shows the 1 pattern error, and gives insights to making it easy!
Here is some of the written version of the video:
Why did my prop arrive in 2 pieces instead? Particularly for the infinity spinner, the holes are so tight that trying to 'slit' the prop like others would guarantee hitting holes since you have to slit in a straight line. 2nd reason is that the angles are done on purpose to help when you do zip tie it back together the different angles put pressure in different directions on purpose.
If you're using the 3D printed brackets: The brackets on the Infinity Spinner are different than most you've seen before - because they have to be. The hole spacing is quite tight so the bolt method had to be used, a standard big 'block' to hole pipe just wouldn't work. The carriage bolt will go through the plate, then the head of the bolt will sit against the coro - trapping it. You will want to put the zip ties as shown here across the 2 halves - and feel free to really tighten them. Once it's all done/pushed - the frame should hold the weight of the prop and there's more than enough zip ties between the 4 brackets to support it all. We've tested the weight of 1,600 pixels on a single zip tie hole in this coro.
Pushing:
The top doesn't really matter where you start, but is easiest to setup; the brackets are intended where the short distance between the brackets is to the top and find the center "leaf". Imagine drawing a straight line through that main "leaf" straight down to the center pixel circle - and the top pixel is 1,450 - the pixel just to the right is pixel 1. Our props almost always have the first and last pixel next to each other for easier connections if/when needed - to achieve that on the infinity spinner there is a line of pixels that travels from the top down back next to 1 - the wiring never jumps "over" that line.
The entire thing is relatively simple patterns as the pixels/wiring loops back and forth (and there is 1 error in the pattern). For instance pixel 1 goes in, and you follow the inner circle clockwise and just before #20 it goes up in to a new pattern which rotates counter clockwise. Once you figure out the pattern it's the same until you get close to that middle line - where you move back up. You can draw the wiring if you want - but I find that as long as I can get the pattern at each layer down after the first 1 or 2 pattern repeats, I don't even look at the wiring diagram on Xlights when pushing. Just be careful to get it right as you approach that "center" line where the patterns change.
The error in the pattern
Here is the error in the pattern and you don't need to worry about it until you're almost to 1,300. Notice in the green circles that the end on the right doesn't reach far to the right, but on the red circle it does? When I push this I count each section of 5 pixels (some get double counted, meaning I will count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and then number 5 is the first for the next row - then I just keep in my head I'm simply counting rows of 5 - meaning if I get distracted, look up/away when I look down I'll see that maybe I've pushed 3 - there's 2 more in the row). In the error there is a 6 count of pixels where it reaches just a little further.
If you're on auto pilot, but checking every 100 pixels - you'll see that it's off at pixel 1,300.
Last notes
You willreally want pixel pliers as some are tight enough it's difficult to get even the pliers to fit between pixels.
I personally break my strings up into 4 port - starting at 1, 401, 801, 1201 - for most 12v pixels at 20% you shouldn't need balancing (though at that point many want it). I use blue painters tape to mark those connections so they're easy to find later in the giant sea of pixel wiring and connections.
It is a lot of pixels and work - but it's such an awesome prop - it will all be worth it.
